
Patrons at Donau115, a bar and music venue in Neukölln, Berlin. Blake Horn for Lonely Planet
A former mayor of Berlin once described his city as “poor but sexy.” Two decades ago, he more or less had it just right. Rents were low, parts of East Berlin were completely abandoned, corporate constituents were few, and artists reveled in transforming huge spaces and districts into creative hubs.
While the artists have stayed, the city’s neighborhoods have changed. Today, the German capital has became a thriving multicultural city, with creative energy these days coming as much from the start-up scene as from ateliers and galleries. Fabulous restaurants and cafes are everywhere – and the city’s ever-evolving nightlife scene remains the stuff of legend.
In short: Berlin might no longer be poor, but it’s definitely still sexy. And anyone planning a trip here can see just how in its many dynamic neighborhoods. These are six of the best ones.
1. Mitte
Best for getting close to the city’s history
Destroyed and reconstructed several times, Mitte is Berlin’s historic and cultural heart. This is a must-visit area for any first-time visitor, and you can easily spend a full day touring the locations where key moments of 20th-century history went down.
Start your day at the iconic Brandenburg Gate, then follow the path traced by the Berlin Wall. The Holocaust Memorial is a powerful, essential stop for any visitor to Berlin. As are Checkpoint Charlie (a former crossing point between East and West Germany, and a fascinating Cold War relic) and the Topografie des Terrors (a compelling presentation of Nazi atrocities).
After looking backward, venture into the present at the Reichstag, the seat of Germany’s parliament. Infamously torched in the run-up to World War II, this grand structure was gloriously renovated in the 1990s, after Germany’s reunification. (Book well ahead for a free ticket to visit the building and its gorgeous dome.)
Continue your journey with a stroll along Unter den Linden, where cafes, art galleries, designer boutiques, opera houses and other historical buildings all sit side by side. Another option is taking a relaxing walk east along the Spree river, where you can see some of city’s most striking modern architecture.
Where to eat: Liu Nudelhaus does a roaring trade in food from the southwestern Chinese province of Sichuan, famous for its palate-dazzling dishes. Must-try: the Sichuan Zajiang noodles bathing in a bold chili-oil sauce. Come before 12.30pm or after 2pm to avoid the lunchtime rush.
2. Prenzlauer Berg
Best for cafes and charm
Prenzlauer Berg has a reputation for family-friendliness – yet there’s much more to the neighborhood, whose laid-back atmosphere makes it a magnet for artists, musicians and young professionals. The picturesque cobblestone streets here are perfect for wandering around and taking pictures, while its diverse array of vintage shops and cozy bookstores make for an ideal rainy-afternoon outing.
If you love food, Prenzlauer Berg won’t disappoint. Its streets are lined with restaurants representing cuisines from around the world, while charming cafes offer countless options for a hot drink.
If you find yourself here during a summer weekend, a Sunday trip to Mauerpark should be a top priority. Grab some Späti beers and immerse yourself in the park’s bustling flea market, where bargains galore await.
Inside the park, check out one of the many buskers showcasing their talent – and, if you’re brave enough, sing your favorite song in front of hundreds of people at the Bearpit Karaoke Show, one of the largest open-air karaoke events in the world.
Where to eat: The “indo-mexi-cal-ital” fusion fare at W Der Imbiss unique and fully vegetarian (and largely vegan). Fans line up for its signature naan pizza freshly baked in the tandoor oven and topped with anything from avocado to smoked salmon. Other standouts are the fish tacos, the thali curry spread and the tandoori salmon.
3. Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg
Best for alternative culture and multicultural vibes
Although these two completely different districts are separated by the Spree, Berliners consider them as one. The epicenter of alternative art and culture in Berlin, “Kreuzhain” is a neighborhood that brings together edgy vibes with an eclectic mix of cultures. From the colorful graffiti-covered walls to the vibrant bars and clubs along Simon-Dach-Straße, this district is a haven for artists, musicians and those embracing alternative lifestyles.
Throughout its streets are secondhand shops, independent bookstores, captivating street art and lively bars, all of which contribute to its unique charm. Whether you’re trying a doner kebab (Berlin’s unofficial dish), strolling along the East Side Gallery (a mural-covered stretch of the Wall) or enjoying Späti beers at Görlitzer Park, you can expect to encounter people from diverse religions, social groups and nationalities in Kreuzhain.
Once the sun sets, things take on a new energy. As vegan cafes and vintage shops close for the day, techno clubs and alternative bars come to life. The party never stops in this part of the city, with clubs like Crack Bellmer open every night, and legendary venues like Salon zur Wilden Renate occasionally hosting weekend-long parties. Simply put, Kreuzhain is a place to feel alive.
Where to eat: Next-gen Michelin-starred restaurant Tolus Lotrek has all you could wish for: fantastic food, to-die-for wines and conversation-sparking design, all wrapped into a feel-good vibe of disarming irreverence.
4. Neukölln
Best for bohemian spirit and exploring on foot
What was once one of the most dangerous places in Berlin has become an essential, livable neighborhood: Neukölln is a microcosm of Berlin itself. From the cobblestone streets and charming boutique shops of Rixdorf to the vibrant energy of Weserstraße, Neukölln pulsates day and night, never ceasing to captivate.
The streets of Neukölln are also a treasure of international flavors. (Have you sensed a trend yet?) Restaurants, cafes and bars line the bustling streets, satisfying any craving you might have, from Middle Eastern delicacies, Vietnamese street food to traditional German dishes.
Additionally, Neukölln boasts a thriving arts and cultural scene. Independent art galleries, offbeat music venues and alternative performance spaces have become essential stops in the area.
Where to eat: The folks at Berlin Burger International know that size matters – at least when it comes to burgers. These bulging and sloppy contenders, with everything prepared fresh, require both hands and your full attention.
5. Charlottenburg-Wilmersdorf
Best for gracious elegance
In Charlottenburg-Wilmersdorf, you won’t feel like you’re in Berlin – and that’s precisely why it’s so appealing. Say goodbye to graffiti-covered walls, €5 kebabs and neon-hued hair: Charlottenburg is class all the way. Its luxury boutiques and elegant baroque buildings overlooking quaint alleyways let you know you’ve reached the posh side of town.
Yet don’t let the fancy cars and international brands intimidate you, for the neighborhood is long on charm, too. Baroque Charlottenburg Palace dates from the 17th century, and has one of the most gorgeous landscaped gardens you will find in the city. For art enthusiasts, C/O Berlin and the Helmut Newton Foundation are exceptional places to spend an afternoon immersed in creativity.
A neighborhood surprise are the delicious Asian restaurants along Kantstraße. You might also cap off your day with a sophisticated cocktail at the Hat Bar Berlin, a cozy lounge with nightly jazz performances that create an intimate and unforgettable experience.
Where to eat: Set up in a former pharmacy, Madame Ngo serves up pho that is simply divine. This gourmet Hanoi-style brasserie also serves up fresh takes on French classics, such as pâté, crevettes (shrimp) de Paris and fried quail.
6. Tiergarten
Best for escaping the city’s clamor
While Berlin’s hectic pace excites many, it can overwhelm others. Luckily, Tiergarten offers an oasis of relaxation and peace smack in the middle of town.
Close to but truly set apart from Berlin’s busy streets, constant traffic and buzz, this 520-acre forest in the heart of the city is an urban treasure. Take a leisurely bike ride through the park, indulge in a peaceful picnic in the company of squirrels or explore the park’s cultural attractions, such as the renowned Berlin Zoo and the iconic Victory Column.
Where to eat: Finish the day at the lakeside Café am Neuen See, a quiet beer garden located next to an artificial pond. If you’re lucky, you might see one or two foxes wandering around on your way home.










